back to japan 5 - kyoto

    

At the other end of the megalopolis lies Kyoto, the capital of Japan for a thousand years. Surrounded by hills, it is self contained and full of history. This was a revisit as we liked it so much last year, and once again we stayed in the hotel in the amazing station building. Although we revisited a few places, mostly we were able to seek out new experiences – there certainly is plenty to see here. 

     We started off with a long walk along the river and through Gion to the far north east where the city meets the hills. Here there is a footpath that follows a canal for several kilometres, known as the Philosopher's Path: a very pleasant walk though an area of expensive looking houses and small temples. 

     We stopped for coffee and a sandwich at a little local cafe, run by a very old couple: – the lady of the house, who obviously took great pride in her appearance, smartly dressed and with full make-up, seemed delighted to have us there, and insisted we try her delightfully light cheesecake.

     Next day we got an all day bus pass and travelled around, first to the end of the line in the far north west. We walked through a small village with its temple and many allotments, then out to Otagi-Nenbutsiji temple in another wooded valley, with thousands of whimsical chubby, moss covered figures. The Shinto temple celebrates the spirit of the place, and protects the route to a hidden waterfall. We carried on to the huge complex of zen temples – Tenryuji – with gardens that date back seven centuries, set against the wooded hills. They are immaculate and beautifully arranged to rpvide views from the temple buildings. 

     Another Zen temple is perhaps even more impressive, with some of the most famous dry sand gardens for contemplation and an older garden around a ravine, with spectacular covered bridges, as well as an ancient gatehouse. This is Tofuko-ji, which was almost empty when we were there, despite being very close to the Shinto Fushimi Inari shrine, the place of a thousand brightly painted and very photogenic torii gates leading up to the top of the mountain, which was bustling with school parties and coach tours. The contrast between the silent contemplation of one and the good luck charming of the other is plain to see.

    

From Kyoto we also took a side trip to Nara, another ex capital of Japan, way back in the eighth century. It was old and a tourist attraction even back in the Edo era and still retains many delights.

Quiet back streets of the old merchant quarter, with many craft shops. The huge park with a mature landscape, and deer begging for food – famously they bow to encourage you. The ancient forests on the hills above. 

     Best of all is the 5 storey pagoda and the massive Todaiji temple, with its 15m high bronze Buddha. On our visit it was filled with school parties and many other tourists. It dates back to the eighth century but the present building is about four hundred years old, and still one of the largest wooden structures on earth. It really is on a scale that's hard to take in.

     While in Kyoto we expanded our food options, taking in yakiniku the Japanese take on table top barbecue in a tiny resturant in a Gion back street; and next day an authentic many coursed Korean dinner on the eleventh floor of the amazing station building.