NEXT DAY it's off to the north coast past the wide grey expanse of Lake
Biwa; past snow dusted mountains under mists that make them look like
a traditional scroll painting. First impressions of Kanazawa are of
a very modern, but quiet town, with wide boulevards. A bit like
North Korea, says Ian. Unfair, because we soon find the more
interesting parts of town, despite some wildly changeable weather –
snow heavy skies, depositing drizzle, sleet and ice pellets, then
bright sunshine, then back again.
Another
spectacular castle leads us to Kanazawa's treasure – Kenroku-en
Garden, reckoned to be one of the three best in Japan. In the Edo
era style, it has a huge waterfall and many lakes and watercourses,
tea houses, and ancient trees lopped and pruned and propped to great
effect. It is all immaculately kept and even in terrible weather
looks like a dream.
From there we pass to an old quarter of tea
merchants' houses, very pretty but now given over to tourists. But
then we're tourists too! We come across a large family group of all
ages in traditional dress, revelling in their history as bright
sunshine bursts through for a few minutes. A very modern craft beer
microbrewery nearby proves a welcome respite when the snow pellets
return and a pleasant way to round off the day.
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