Pacific NW 2: Olympic national park

So we had to say goodbye to the Sunset Marine Resort and the friendly ladies that own and run it, and continue our trip along the north coast. We passed Crescent Lake, its long dark waters utterly still and mirror like; via blink and you'll miss it Forks; eventually to Lake Quinault (pron. kwinolt) deep into the Olympic temperate rainforest. The Lodge here, where we stayed, is part of that early tradition of national park accommodation, solid and dependable, built in just a couple of months in the 1920s when this area must have seemed very remote. It sits above a lawn reaching down to the lake, and surrounded by huge Douglas firs and Sitka spruces, with a view to the forests beyond. The rooms have been discreetly modernised to retain the feeling that early visitors would have experienced - no TVs or fridges, but now with en suites and wifi. The main lobby with its log fire and massive chimney, and decorated dark wooden structure, is very comfortable, and the restaurant was surprisingly good, if expensive. 

Next day we walked the long carefully maintained trails through the forest, across the valley's steep sided flanks. The forest is extraordinary. Every tree is covered with moss and cascading air plants and ferns. Trees brought down by storms lie chaotically, with new growth sprouting from them as they slowly rot into the ground. Everywhere there is running water, creeks and rapids and waterfalls. A primeval feel, enhanced by exotic bird calls and distant rustlings. Later we drove right around the lake, passing remote farms in cleared areas along unmetalled roads. On the north side of the lake we visited another well marked trail through one of the wildest rainforest areas, and visited an abandoned farm that is slowly being restored, complete with rusting ancient farm implements and even an old truck.

Next day, we travelled on to Oregon, passing quickly through the poorer coastal towns of south coastal Washington, stopping briefly at Astoria for a look at the still thriving fishing port and the huge panorama from the park at the top of the town: of the coast and the Columbia River, destined to become a theme of our overall trip.