Pacific NW 3: Oregon coast

 

We stayed for 2 nights at the Inn at Cannon Beach, and enjoyed long coastal walks. Though we seemed to have brought Sequim's blue hole along the trip with us so far, the rain we had been expecting finally came in on the second day, but even then only intermittently. This coast is punctuated by dark sea stacks of volcanic rock, and the beach here is dominated by Haystack Rock, where the locals were celebrating the annual return of puffins that breed here.

Oregon has a strange idea about claims to fame. While in WA we saw the world's biggest Sitka spruce, and many other such giants, whereas Oregon boasts the world's shortest river, the world's smallest harbour, and the world's shortest commissioned lighthouse (superseded after 43 months, but still very picturesque).

We had some excellent long walks along the beach over the next two days.

But we were saving the best beaches for later. Continuing south, we stopped off at Depoe Bay, a lively little tourist town where the waves were getting fiercer, slamming into the rocks along the promenade with great plumes of seawater shooting up and sometimes over the visitors. 
Our destination was Yachats (pron. ya-HOTS) where we had booked a longer stay, 5 nights at the Overleaf Resort: a house there, to be precise, just metres from the beach, with a huge double height living room with fireplace, and comfortable ensuite bedrooms. Fully equipped, so we ended up cooking in most nights, managing to construct some very memorable meals, including casseroles, lamb shanks slow baked in wine, and frittata. Yachats is a laid back little place, not entirely given over to holiday lets and weekend homes. It has some friendly local shops and an independent brew pub, and we did eat out one night at Heidi's Italian restaurant, which was charming and very authentic, with home made ravioli. We had a pleasant chat with an amateur marine historian who was touring the coast, giving talks to US coastguard staff. 
 
Most of the time we just walked, up to 9 miles a day on the endless empty beaches. Mostly sunny but cool, and with the constant roar of ocean waves, this was ideal for walking and watching local bird life. Behind the beach, the trees are contorted by the wind into tight swept back shapes, like a Japanese water colour, interspersed with grey Cape style houses – from the most shambolic shacks to huge mansions of Seattle software billionaires – but all bowing to the strength of nature, recessive among the pines. We literally felt the power when a freak wave on the incoming tide, swept right up to our 'unmentionables' as Kathleen put it, forcing us to scramble onto the front lawn of a motel, soaked and freezing. Apparently these 'sneaker waves' are well known on this coast.

We made some short trips too. To Cape Perpetua, one of the highest capes on the coast, with a 70 mile view from north to south. Next, to a working lighthouse at Heceta Head, whitewashed and pristine, with an elegant keeper's cottage nearby. Beside it, the coast road shoots over a huge viaduct then plunges into a tunnel under the next headland. Finally, into the woods, where we drove on difficult forest tracks for miles through yet more giant firs and spruces, way up over a watershed and into the clouds, where we got a real sense of the temperate rainforest. The hillside dropped away from the track in deep gorges with fast running streams, and not a single person to be seen.

A final long barefoot walk on the beach and it was time to leave the coast and head inland.